Fresh Mozzarella

Why make mozzarella? Partly because I can, the simple gratification of knowing how to take raw ingredients and create a finished product I can eat. There is more to it than that though, a gratifying sense of self sufficiency, escape from reliance on mass produced food, a break from vocation, a task that has an inherent value unto itself, a simple rejection of the societal norm of immediate gratification, an embrace of the quality provided by slowing down and doing something important. Once I understand a process I can better appreciate the subtleties presented by an artisan of the craft, I can make changes, I can make it mine. It could be that Friday night is pizza night and I need mozzarella.

It doesn’t really matter the reason it’s easy to make and takes about 20 minutes. In its basic form it takes 3 ingredients, milk, citric acid and rennet.

Almost any milk will do, with the exception of ultra-pasteurized milk which is becoming more commonly available due to extended shelf life. During the process of ultra-pasteurization the milk is heated to a high temperature, which affects the proteins so they won’t form proper curds. I am using a gallon of whole milk and I will get about a little more than a pint of cheese.

Citric acid can be purchased in a granular form, this is sometimes referred to as sour salt. This is a refined product that allows you to easily measure a quantity that will give you the proper pH. There are other sources of citric acid such as lemon juice that could be used, but due to varying concentrations of citric acid the additions would have to be managed by testing the resulting pH 5.4 – 5.6 after the addition of the juice. The acid promotes separation of the solids in the milk. In this recipe I am using 1 ½ teaspoons of citric acid dissolved in 1 cup of water.

The last ingredient that is needed is rennet. Rennet is and enzyme used in cheese making that promotes the bonding of the curds. It comes as animal or vegetable rennet, the animal rennet was the original derivation and was extracted from a calf or goat, vegetable rennet is processed form molds. It comes in liquid or tablet form, while the tablets are more common the liquid form is easier to use and measure accurately. The conversion is 1 rennet tablet is equal to 1 teaspoon of liquid rennet, unless it is extra strength liquid rennet in which case it is cut in half. I am using extra strength rennet, so for a gallon of milk I need 1/8 teaspoon, if you were using tablets you would need ¼ tablet.

The tools needed to make the cheese using a gallon of milk include:

• A pot that will hold at least 6 quarts, larger is preferred, I am using a 5 gal stock pot.
• A thermometer to measure the temperature of the milk, I am using a digital thermometer attached to a meat probe that I hang over the top of the pot.
• A slotted spoon or colander for removing the curds from the whey.
• A microwaveable bowl that will hold at least a quart.
• A pair of spoons or rubber gloves for stretching the cheese.

Start by pouring the cold milk into the pot, then while agitating it slowly mix in the citric acid dissolved in water. Heat the milk and acid mixture, stirring occasionally to prevent scalding, to 88 degrees. Add the rennet when you achieve 88 degrees while stirring gently to ensure it is well mixed, about 30 seconds, then discontinue stirring to allow the curds to form. Continue heating to 105 degrees, as the mixture heats you will notice the curds start to form and pull away from the side of the pot. Once you hit 105 degrees the curd should have formed, stir gently for about 30 seconds and turn off the heat. I let it rest for about 10 minutes.

Things to watch for:

• This process doesn’t take very long, it takes about 10 minutes to get to 88 degrees at medium meat.
• If your thermometer is in the middle where your curds form first, the curds may insulate it, resulting in a delay in reading 105 degrees. You may get a more accurate reading at the side of the pot.

Once the mixture is rested, you can separate the curds from the whey. You can use a spoon with drain holes in it as I show in the picture and place the curds in a microwaveable bowl, but I prefer to slowly pour the whey into a colander allowing most of the curds to go in last. If you are using a bowl, once the all the curds have been transferred you can pour off the excess whey while holding the curds in the bowl with a spoon. If you are using a colander tilt the colander on its side and roll the curds around it till you remove most of the whey. Don’t try to get all the whey out or press the curds too hard, you will end up making the cheese to hard.

The next step is to put the curds in a microwavable bowl if you haven’t already and put them in the microwave for 1 minute. Take the bowl out of the microwave and use two spoons to lift the cheese and fold it over on itself stretching it as you do. Once the cheese drops much below 135 degrees and it doesn’t stretch very well, place it back in the microwave for 30 seconds. During this second stretching I add the salt, 1 to 2 teaspoon seems to bring out the flavors well. Sprinkle the salt across the top of the cheese and fold it in. As it cools this time I quit using the spoons and start shaping the cheese with my hands by folding it onto itself without stretching it much, it’s still going to be hot enough to fuse together if you give it some time. Once you are ready to maintain the shape you have made you can dip it in cold water.

Try a piece of your warm cheese now and if you don’t eat it all you can make a pizza with the rest.